March 26th, 2007


One More Time In Buenos Aires.

Back in Buenos Aires. Raining a tad bit so I'm seeking refuge in an Internet cafe. Not used to this thick, muggy air, especially after a couple of weeks of dry Patagonian winds that had transformed my un-lotioned hands into ed asphalt.

Flew in last night and promptly ate a lethal steak dinner at La Cabrera. And by 'lethal' I mean the dinner was so ing huge it almost ended me. At first I was determined to finish the damn thing, but about a little more than half-way through the meal, I began to realize that if I did consume the whole thing, my entrails would probably explode out of my torso like s jumping out of a cake. A very sad moment for me in my once illustrious eating career.

Despite my first encounters with armadillos and grey foxes, Punta Norte was disappointing. No killer whales violently wriggling ashore and tearing sea lion pups to pieces. The funny thing was that there was a couple of dozen onlookers who were there for that very reason. Little did the sunbathing sea lions on the beach realize that all these people were desperately hoping to see them get massacred. And it wasn't just us. There were flocks of seagulls patiently waiting next to each cluster of sea lions to dine on y scraps after the killer whales were done.

I did see penguins in Punta Tombo, though. Hundreds of thousands of them. Molting. Squawking. ting. They really didn't give a damn about humans; so you could walk right up to them, put your finger on their little black foreheads, and tip them over. When they do want you to keep your distance, they do this dance where they repeatedly tilt and turn their heads clockwise and counter-clockwise. Not sure how this is supposed to scare you, maybe they're actually auditioning for another dancing penguin movie.

Flying back to LA tonight. It's gonna feel weird not having 70-mph winds pulverizing you. I really am not used to still air anymore.

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